Unfortunately, fine decaffeinated coffees are the exception rather than the norm - with most unenlightened decaf drinkers having to suffer bitter, thin-bodied coffee that leaves a foul flat woody decaf aftertaste. But naturally processed decaffeinated coffee that is freshly roasted and carefully brewed, can taste so nearly the equal to an untreated coffee from the same farm that only a tasting involving a direct comparison reveals the difference to the uninitiated.
It is a funny thing that caffeine itself is a virtually tasteless compound; however, removing it from green coffee beans without damaging literally hundreds of other flavour compounds that contribute to the sensory character of a roasted coffee is very, very difficult, if not impossible. Also - (I will spare you all the detail) decaffeinated coffees are notoriously difficult to roast - the greens start off darker from the decaffeination process so they roast darker and they also have less bound moisture content so they roast quicker and all this has to be taken into consideration. So when looking at what decaf beans to buy we try to pick out coffees that we know will take the decaffeination process well, also roast well and shine in their own right as decaf.
Through using our own roast profiles for decaf coffees we try hard to enhance the acidity as much as we can as this is the element that becomes overly muted, we try to develop the high floral notes and at the same time try not to amplify the flat woody decaf taste found in so many other decaf coffees. The trick in roasting a decaf coffee is to use a roast profile that pushes the woody taste of the bean itself to the back of the cup (we want this to disappear if possible) and bring forward the more complex substances that contribute to the aroma and flavour of the coffee. We think we achieve this for our decaf drinkers